CHOCOLATE YA-YA: IT’S ALL ABOUT THE MELT, THE SNAP, AND THE WAY IT FEELS SO GOOD

TOPBILLING, August 2005

Markus Färbinger is half of the genius behind Knysna’s Ile de Païn, the place where everyone should eat when in this ever-popular seaside town. Not only can you taste the best bread ever – Markus is a fifth-generation baker – but also hot chocolate that’s orgasmically good. Really.

Chocolate is so loved because... it’s an emotional thing. It’s the memory of childhood treats; it’s about luxury and excess.

Technically, it’s loved because... of the balance of flavours: bitter, sweet, sour and salty: it’s the colour, the darkness and lightness; and the mouthfeel, the balance of textures. All this produces the feel and flavour of chocolate and adds to its mythical quality.

It can transform you if... you eat it properly, slowly and thoughtfully, in the right environment and with the right people.

The uniqueness is in ... the way it melts. In fact, when you eat chocolate, it initially feels warm, but actually cools the palate by half a degree as it melts. The melting of chocolate brings the cacao butter molecules into motion, which generates heat, hence there is a faint ‘cooling’ sensation in the mouth. Scientists are still not able to fake the unique melting properties of chocolate with man-made products.

Its unique melt is from... the cacao butter - that’s the fat in the cacao bean. A good chocolate should snap when breaking a piece off, and yet melt quickly at body temperature.

The cacao content gives an indication of... how much cacao is being used as opposed to the sugar content. It doesn’t always mean if the cacao content is higher the taste is better. That’s like saying the darker the roast of a coffee, the better the taste. It’s about more than one thing.

You can tell a good chocolate by... the colour, the ‘snap’ the smell, the way it melts in the mouth, the aroma when tasting, the balance and integration of the cacao with the sugar, the way it leaves no residue in the mouth, and a pleasant texture. There should be a lasting taste in one’s mouth even after the chocolate has been swallowed. Good chocolate is not a candy. It’s a gastronomic masterpiece and should receive as much (or more) attention as wines and cheeses do.

What makes a good chocolate dish is... the combination of the best ingredients and the proper manufacturing process. It all depends on what you want to do with it. It’s vital that you have a good, strong raw ingredient and then use a recipe that matches that ingredient.

In applications such as hot chocolate and ganache... you can really taste a good chocolate, more than in its raw state. The warming and blending helps develop the flavour and make it more accessible.

Hot chocolate was the first thing... I learnt to make. Only after a few years did I start comprehending the complexity of this simple thing.

Some of my favourite brands are... Felchlin, a Swiss product, Valhrona from France, El Rey, which us great for its naturalness and boldness, and Scharffenberger from California.

A CHANCE OF A LIFETIME FOR CHOCOLATE PUNDITS

Gastronomica is a new initiative based in Knysna, and it focuses on training, supporting and developing the gastronomic consciousness in South Africa. One of their first projects is a chocolate and patisserie competition open to professional pastry chefs, trainee chefs, culinary and pastry students and instructors. First prize is an all-expenses –paid trip to Switzerland, while the runner-up wins a one-week chocolate master class in Stellenbosch. The competition closes end of August.

For more information, call 044 302 5749 or visit gastronomicakny.co.za